Summer may just now be reaching its peak—both temperature and vibe-wise—but it’s time to start looking ahead to what’s waiting for us post-Labor Day. The schedule for New York’s spring 2024 ready-to-wear shows was released this morning, and there are some exciting developments.
First off is Peter Do’s debut at Helmut Lang, which nabbed the kick-off slot on Friday, September 8 at 2 PM. This is the first time we’ll be seeing the label on the runway since spring 2020, when Mark Thomas and Thomas Cawson were in charge. Do’s eponymous collection remains off the schedule following the digital release of his fall 2023. Though Helmut Lang is the season’s officialopener, Stuart Vevers of Coach will be presenting his new collection the night before, and he’s got a good reason for the special time slot—the celebration of his 10th anniversary at the brand.
Also on Friday is Ralph Lauren’s first New York Fashion Week appearance since September 2019. Other returning names include Rio Uribe of Gypsy Sport, who has been presenting his collections in Los Angeles; Phillip Lim, who hasn’t staged a 3.1 Phillip Lim show since before the pandemic, and Jonathan Cohen, who has been focusing on digital releases for the last few years. Alejandro Gómez Palomo, who came to NYFW last season with Palomo Spain, will be showing in the city again on Saturday, September 9 at 3 PM.
The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund is a competition once more, and its finalists are scattered across the schedule, some of them for the very first time. New to the calendar are Rachel Scott of Diotima, Sami Miró of Sami Miró Vintage, and Kozaburo Akasaka of Kozaburo, all of whom are doing in-person presentations, and Melitta Baumeister, who will release images of her collection digitally.
Missing from the schedule this season are Sandy Liang, Veronica Beard, the recently renamed Simkhai (formerly Jonathan Simkhai), Rodarte, and Heron Preston. Thom Browne, the CFDA Chairman, is absent from the calendar after returning to the NYFW calendar in February. While a representative for the brand did not share Browne’s plans for the spring 2024 season, they said the designer will be hosting “a series of activations” both in New York and abroad to celebrate his 20th anniversary with more information to come soon, and that they “look forward to supporting our fellow American designers throughout the upcoming New York Fashion Week.” Additionally, Tom Ford’s new creative director Peter Hawkings will make his debut in Milan, and Fforme’s Paul Helbers will stage his first runway show on Sunday, September 10 at 12 PM. As for the week’s closer on Wednesday, September 13? The honor once again goes to Raul Lopez of Luar.
A year ago, the spring 2024 NYFW calendar was jam-packed, with over 120 brands across physical, digital, and by-appointment releases, plus guest appearances by Fendi and Marni. This time around, the schedule has fewer than 100 brands across all formats (and no shared timeslots!), a significant trimming. But even despite a reduced lineup, newcomers Grace Ling, Advisry, Sho Konishi, and Chan Chit Lo found slots. We’ll see what this next class of designers has to offer in six weeks.